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This will give you at least 1 MHz (and much more), which in some cases might be more usefull. If you want to see more bandwidth at your waterfall, you can try a different tap point at L1. General view of the IF board with buffer installedīy using the tap point at 元 you will only have a maximum usable bandwidth of about 50 KHz because of the filter on all bands (V/U/S). Use tireups to secure the cable from moving front and back. For easy installation, the IF output cable is routed on the top of the board, however you can route it from the bottom. The buffer board is secured with double side tape on the chassis at the front. I was in a hurry to test this mod, so I didn't searched more :-) If you search carefully you may find a closer place to get the power. This pin provides 13,8 V from the main power switch of the radio. It's at the back side of the board, a little far, but I didn't have any RF problems. A good and safe place is the pin 7 of the ACC 4 connector. You will also need power for your buffer board. I got the male SMA option to connect direct to the SDRPlay receiver input. (G4HUP does not provide the input RF cable, he provides only the output IF cable with a male or female SMA connector). Secure the cable to the board with some tape. Don't forget the shield of the coax, use as ground the case of L2. I find it's a good place and not very risky to burn the FET or other components. In practice I soldered the cable directly to the 元. There are many cables !!! It's highly recommended to take a high resolution photo of the board with all the cables attached in case you forget their position. To do that you must unscrew first all the screws keeping the board in place and also unplug all the cables. I take no responsibility for any damage that this modification may do to your radio. Ask for help from someone that is more qualified to do this. If you feel that you cannot do it, then DON'T TRY IT. There is a lot of work needed to actually reach the IF tap point. You can build your own buffer or you can buy one, as I did. You will also need to get somewhere the 13,8 volts to give power to the buffer amp. You need to add a suitable buffer amplifier to isolate you from the circuit and that way you don't have losses at your sub receiver.You have to use a good quality RF cable and place the buffer amplifier as close as you can to the tap point. Of course, you can't just solder a simple wire and get the IF. KENWOOD TS-790 Schematic with SUB IF TAP POINT
#Kenwood ts 790 service manual manual#
Sorry for the bad quality of the pictures, but the scanned service manual is very bad. Respectively, if someone wants to get the IF from the main band should look for the drain of Q56 fet.Īt the schematic diagram below you can see the exact tap point. So the best place to tap for the IF would be the drain of Q5 fet. Looking at the block diagram it seems that the signals from all the bands (VHF/UHF/SHF) are going into the XF1 filter and then to Q5 fet amplifier. I decided to go for the sub band IF because I didn't wanted to mess with the transmit circuits used in the main band. The IF for the main receiver is 10,695 MHz and the IF for the sub receiver is 10,595 MHz. This rig has 2 independent receivers (main and sub) and as a result has also 2 IF's. I thought it would be very nice to have a panoramic view of the bands while using the same antenna.Īfter search I found the TS-790 service manual and I started to study it.
#Kenwood ts 790 service manual software#
There is no doubt that software defined radios are the future. I recently got a second hand TS-790 with the 1.2 GHz unit installed and after a good cleaning and service I've done, I decided to search the options I have to get the IF from the radio to feed my SDRplay wideband receiver.